The illuminated Christmas tree in Trafalgar Square.

December in London: Christmas Trees, Ice Rinks and Markets

December in London brings Christmas trees, temporary ice rinks and market lights to familiar streets. In this full Roberts London episode, I followed the season from the Trafalgar Square tree-lighting ceremony to skating rinks, riverside markets and a welcome pint beside a pub fire.

The visits span the month rather than a single evening. Rain follows me through much of the episode, but it never quite gets the better of the Christmas atmosphere. Originally published on 10 January 2019, this is an archive of those festive London outings.

Barry Roberts beginning the December episode beside the London Eye.
Barry Roberts beginning the December episode beside the London Eye.

The Trafalgar Square Christmas tree

I began beside the London Eye before heading to Trafalgar Square for the first lighting of that year’s Christmas tree. For me, the attraction was its meaning as much as its appearance. The tree was simply decorated, and the ceremony gave it a sense of occasion that went beyond the lights.

In the square, I waited among the crowd while carols and speeches continued. The speeches spoke about the tree as a gift from Oslo and a symbol of friendship between Norway and Britain. Rather than rush past the ceremony, the episode stays with it, letting the voices and music form part of the visit.

Once the lights were on, I took another look at the tree and the people gathered beneath it. Carols were still being sung when I spoke to the camera afterwards. It felt like a proper beginning to the Christmas season in central London.

Crowds waiting for the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree lighting.
Crowds waiting for the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree lighting.
The illuminated Christmas tree in Trafalgar Square.
The illuminated Christmas tree in Trafalgar Square.

Ice rinks against London landmarks

Later in the month, I set out to look at three outdoor ice rinks. I joked that I was more likely to keep both hands on the safety rail than perform any impressive skating. The real draw for this visit was the setting: each rink had a very different London backdrop.

Somerset House was the first stop. Its courtyard made a wonderful frame for the ice, and I also pointed out the ringside bar. Watching from a bar stool seemed a perfectly reasonable way to enjoy the skating, especially for someone with my level of confidence on the ice.

Next came the Tower of London. The rink sat in the moat beside the fortress, although heavy rain made it look rather more like a swimming pool when I arrived. Even in that weather, the location was striking. The old walls gave the skating scene a character all its own.

At the Natural History Museum, the rain had finally stopped, but the ice still looked very wet. I decided to stick with warm drinks in the bar and leave skating for a drier evening. The museum and the lights around the rink were still worth seeing, even from the sidelines.

These were the rinks shown during this archive visit. The footage is a record of their settings and atmosphere at the time, rather than a current list of places to book.

The Christmas tree in the illuminated Somerset House courtyard.
The Christmas tree in the illuminated Somerset House courtyard.
Skaters on the ice rink beside the Tower of London.
Skaters on the ice rink beside the Tower of London.
The Natural History Museum ice rink during the winter visit.
The Natural History Museum ice rink during the winter visit.
Barry Roberts taking a break with a warm drink.
Barry Roberts taking a break with a warm drink.

Christmas markets on the South Bank

The next part of the episode moves to the south bank of the Thames. Around the Southbank Centre, I found a two-storey Swedish lodge, food stalls, wooden chalets and a carousel. There was plenty happening along the riverside, with the lights helping to brighten another winter evening.

I walked around the market to show the stalls and decorations. The lodge gave the area a focal point, while the smaller chalets made it easy to keep stopping and looking. It was a different kind of festive outing from the ice rinks: a slower wander through food, drink and market displays.

Although the South Bank was a good place to begin, it was only one of the markets in this episode. I then continued along the river to see another stretch of Christmas stalls near Tower Bridge.

Food stalls at the South Bank Christmas market after dark.
Food stalls at the South Bank Christmas market after dark.
The illuminated carousel at the South Bank Christmas market.
The illuminated carousel at the South Bank Christmas market.
Visitors and stalls at the South Bank Christmas market.
Visitors and stalls at the South Bank Christmas market.

Tower Bridge, Hay’s Galleria and the rain

The market by Tower Bridge ran along the river towards London Bridge. I liked the look of it, and the food smelled tempting, but the weather was becoming difficult to ignore. I considered sheltering in one of the lodge bars before taking a closer look.

The rain kept coming. Eventually, I stepped into the dry of Hay’s Galleria and talked through the next part of the plan: head to London Bridge station and take the Tube somewhere more central. There were a few market stalls inside the galleria too, so even the escape from the weather kept something of the festive mood.

That change of plan is part of what the episode records. A December outing in London can involve as much moving between shelter as strolling beneath the lights. Fortunately, there was another market waiting at the next stop.

Christmas market stalls along the river near Tower Bridge.
Christmas market stalls along the river near Tower Bridge.
The Christmas tree inside Hay’s Galleria.
The Christmas tree inside Hay’s Galleria.

Leicester Square’s Christmas market

In Leicester Square, I headed into the market in the gardens. It was still raining, but the stalls and lights gave me plenty to film. The episode spends time walking through the market, showing the setting and the people moving between the displays.

By the end of that visit, I was ready for somewhere warmer and drier. I had enjoyed seeing the markets, even if I would have preferred a clearer evening for them. The weather had shaped the journey without taking away the appeal of London at Christmas.

An illuminated stall at Leicester Square’s Christmas market.
An illuminated stall at Leicester Square’s Christmas market.

A pint beside the fire

Towards the end of December, I returned to Trafalgar Square to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. The tree was behind me, and I reflected on the persistent rain that had accompanied the month’s filming.

There was one final stop to make. After a year of filming, I felt a pint was well earned, so I headed to the pub. The closing scenes bring the pace down after the lights, crowds and wet streets.

I found a seat beside a very warm fire and raised my glass to the camera. It was a comfortable ending to a cold evening, and a fitting way to finish this December in London episode.

Heading towards the pub after a wet December evening.
Heading towards the pub after a wet December evening.
Barry Roberts enjoying a pint at the end of the episode.
Barry Roberts enjoying a pint at the end of the episode.
A warm fire at the end of the December outing.
A warm fire at the end of the December outing.

Watch December in London: Christmas Is Coming

The full episode was originally published on 10 January 2019. Watch below for the tree-lighting ceremony, Somerset House, the Tower of London, the Natural History Museum, the Christmas markets and the fireside finish.

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