Carnaby Street and Shoryu Ramen make a good pairing for a London afternoon: a walk through the shops, a look around Kingly Court and a warming bowl of noodles. In this archive episode, I explore the courtyard before sitting down to green tea, pork gyoza and tonkotsu ramen.
This visit was filmed in March 2016. An earlier version appeared that month, while the version below became public on 15 September 2018. The shops, restaurant details and opinions here belong to that original visit.
Carnaby Street, fashion and memory
I begin beneath the Carnaby Street sign, thinking about how a street can become a brand in its own right. In the video, I reflect on its association with 1960s fashion and pop culture, as well as the way people remember places from their youth.
Whenever I film here, someone tells me it has changed. My feeling on this walk was that change was part of its character. Fashions move on, shops turn over and new visitors arrive. Yet the combination of fashion, food and drink still gives people a reason to come.
There is also plenty to watch as you walk along. Different styles and generations share the same stretch of pavement, each bringing their own memories or expectations. For me, that makes the street interesting beyond the shop windows.
Finding Kingly Court
My destination is Kingly Court, tucked behind the surrounding streets. Its entrances are surprisingly easy to miss. A narrow passage gives little sense of the courtyard waiting inside, even though it opens into a substantial space once you reach the other end.
Shoryu is on the ground floor, but I decide to take a quick look upstairs before eating. From the upper levels, I can see the restaurants and balconies arranged around the courtyard. It is a useful way to understand the space instead of simply walking straight to the table.
A courtyard behind the shops
During this visit, Kingly Court is mainly about food and drink, with other businesses mixed in. I point out its three levels and covered courtyard, then look across at the signs and seating below. It feels like a place where a shopping trip can easily turn into a longer afternoon.
I also talk about the mix of larger brands and smaller businesses around Carnaby. The surrounding buildings create varied shop spaces, and the side streets add to the pleasure of exploring. However, today I have a particular meal in mind, so I head back down to Shoryu.
Green tea at Shoryu
Once inside, I order ramen and green tea. The decorated teapot and cup arrive first, giving me a moment to settle in. In the video, I explain why the pork-bone broth is such an important part of tonkotsu ramen. I am looking forward to that rich soup as much as the noodles themselves.
Pork gyoza on a sizzling skillet
I order pork gyoza as a side dish. They arrive sizzling on a cast-iron skillet, and I get ready to tackle them with chopsticks. It is my first time using chopsticks that year, so there is a little adjustment before I find my rhythm.
That becomes a running joke through the meal. When I use them regularly, they feel familiar; after a break, even something simple can become a small challenge. Still, the dumplings are delicious, and they make a very welcome start.
A rich bowl of tonkotsu ramen
For the main dish, I choose a richer tonkotsu ramen. The bowl comes with pork belly, egg, mushrooms, spring onions, sesame, ginger and seaweed. I pause to show the toppings and the sheen on the broth before digging in.
The camera catches the steam and the generous bowl, although I say at the time that it cannot quite do the broth justice. Then comes the practical business of picking up the egg and noodles without spilling lunch. My chopstick confidence gradually returns as I eat.
My Carnaby Street and Shoryu Ramen verdict
Outside afterwards, I describe the dumplings as delicious and the ramen as very good. I place it among my favourite bowls in London at the time, while stopping short of naming a definite number one. The meal has been the highlight of a thoroughly enjoyable walk.
Before leaving Kingly Court, I also point out a basement bar and Crumbs & Doilies, the cupcake shop with a YouTube connection. There is always another small detail to notice here. This time, though, I head away with a good bowl of ramen as the lasting memory.
