October in London 2017 took me from mooncakes and dumplings in Chinatown to festivals in Trafalgar Square, a late visit to the Natural History Museum and a drink at Ten Bells. This month-long film brings those outings together, beginning among the landmarks around Westminster and ending in Spitalfields.

Originally published on 27 October 2017, it is a record of that autumn’s food, community celebrations and museum visit. The events and venue details below describe what I experienced then.

Chinatown and the Mid-Autumn Festival

I set off towards Chinatown hoping to find the streets decorated for the Mid-Autumn Festival, also called the Mooncake Festival in the film. The lanterns were up, and the walk quickly became as much about food as the decorations. With daylight fading, I wanted to visit the bakeries before settling down to eat.

Golden Gate Cake Shop had mini mooncakes, which solved a small problem: I wanted to try different fillings without committing to a whole large cake. I picked up lotus-paste and red-bean versions to compare later. I also stopped to look at the displays at Kowloon, a bakery I often visited when I was in Chinatown later in the evening.

Dumplings at Jen Café and a Baozi Inn sandwich

Before the cakes, it was time for something savoury. At Jen Café, I watched dumplings being made in the window, then sat down to eat. The film shows both steamed dumplings and a plate of fried ones, with sauce ready for dipping. It is a simple stop, but watching the preparation adds something to the meal.

Next came Baozi Inn. I went over thinking about a steamed bun, then changed my mind and chose the sandwich version. Inside the soft bun were slow-cooked pork, cucumber and salad. I particularly liked the contrast between the fluffy bread, the spiced meat and the crunch of the filling.

These were small stops along the same evening walk, with time between them to look around Chinatown as the lights became more noticeable. The combination of bakery windows, lanterns and busy restaurants is what holds this part of the film together. There is more from the café in the separate Jen Café dumpling visit.

Bubble tea, mini mooncakes and Bake

For something to drink, I picked up milk tea from Chatime, with pearls, aloe vera jelly and coconut jelly. It was a chilly evening, so I ordered it without ice. With the tea in hand, I returned to the mooncakes and tried the two fillings outside Golden Gate.

Both were rich and filling, which made me glad I had chosen the mini versions. The Chinatown section then takes in Bake, where the fish-shaped snacks and the machine making them caught my attention. I tried a custard-filled one before bringing this first outing to a close.

Africa on the Square in October 2017

The next visit moves to Trafalgar Square for Africa on the Square. Performances, food stalls and people gathering around the entertainment give this section a very different pace. I walked through the event, watched some of the acts and took in the stalls before looking back across the square.

The smell of the cooking gets several mentions in my commentary. Alongside the food, the event was a chance to see African art, culture and community represented in the centre of London. The film captures a brief visit among the crowds, with music and movement carrying much of the atmosphere.

A late visit to the Natural History Museum

In South Kensington, I headed to the Natural History Museum for a late opening. Outside, work on the seasonal ice rink was visible during this 2017 visit. Inside, the main sight was the blue whale skeleton suspended above Hintze Hall.

I remembered the dinosaur skeleton that had occupied the hall during my childhood visits. Looking up at the whale prompted a reflection on conservation and the way a museum can connect the past with decisions about the future. The building itself also deserves attention: the arches, windows and long view through the hall make this one of the most striking interiors in the film.

Diwali celebrations in Trafalgar Square

Later in the month, I returned to Trafalgar Square for Diwali. It was a warm day for October, with a busy stage area and crowds moving between entertainment, food and community stalls. I talked about the music, dance and other performances, as well as the craft stalls and henna art I had seen.

This second festival visit shows how differently the same square can feel from one event to another. I finished the filmed section intending to get something from the food stalls and spend more time watching the entertainment.

Ending October at Ten Bells

For a Halloween-inspired final stop, I went to Spitalfields and the Ten Bells pub. The conversation turns to its dark reputation and the stories associated with the area, before the camera looks around the building itself. Those stories belong to the pub’s reputation; the visit ends with the much more everyday pleasure of sitting down for a drink.

The decorative tiles downstairs and the upstairs bar give the closing sequence plenty of character. I also looked through the menu’s account of the pub’s history. You can explore that stop further in the separate Ten Bells, Spitalfields article.

Watch October in London 2017

The full film below follows all five outings, including the longer Chinatown food walk. Continue into the following month with November in London 2017, covering fireworks, remembrance and the start of Christmas.