Columbia Road Flower Market was already announcing itself before I reached the stalls. People coming the other way were carrying bunches of flowers and plants, so there was little doubt I was heading in the right direction. It was a sunny Sunday in East London, and I had a fairly simple mission: find something for the kitchen windowsill.
This visit from my 2016 archive turned into more than a quick shopping trip. There was coffee behind the Royal Oak, a wander through the side courtyards, lavender to bring home and a smoked salmon bagel before leaving. The market supplied plenty of colour and a soundtrack of traders calling across the street.
A Sunday at Columbia Road Flower Market
The main street was packed. Stalls lined the road, with shoppers stopping to compare flowers and work out what they could carry home. Moving through the middle took patience, but the slow pace also gave me time to look closely at what was on offer.
Despite the name, Columbia Road Flower Market was not just about cut flowers. I found pot plants, herbs, shrubs and even olive trees. There was a tempting range for someone who had arrived without deciding exactly what to buy. I considered a little citrus plant, then wondered whether a cooking herb might be more practical.
Behind the stalls, the shops added another reason to linger. I passed pottery, gifts and places selling food and coffee. The pavements offered a different view of the market, with shop windows on one side and the backs of the busy flower stalls on the other.
Coffee behind the Royal Oak
When I wanted a break from the crowds, I headed behind the Royal Oak. The courtyard felt like a small village tucked away from the main road. There were places to browse and something to eat, with enough space to pause before another circuit of the market.
I bought a black Americano from the coffee counter in the yard. They were serving Climpson & Sons coffee on this visit, and it was just what I wanted before going back to choose a plant. For me, those little pauses are part of the pleasure of a Sunday market walk.
I also noticed other courtyards off the street, including the one with Lily Vanilli Bakery. People were sitting outside with cake and coffee. Elsewhere, stalls and shops offered an assortment of smaller finds. A short detour could take me from a crowded flower stall into a completely different scene.
A paprika plant and English lavender
After looking at the options, I chose a paprika plant for the kitchen windowsill. The green peppers and leaves had the summery look I was after, and the possibility of something to eat made it an appealing choice. Getting it home in one piece would be the next challenge.
Then the lavender caught my attention. The stall had both fresh plants and dried lavender, including little bags and bunches. I went for a dried bunch. It smelled wonderful, and it was a much easier purchase to justify than another plant I would have to keep alive.
The traders were as much a part of the experience as the displays. Their calls, jokes and quick replies carried through the market. With people hesitating over plants and others squeezing past with their purchases, there was always something happening around the next stall.
A smoked salmon bagel before heading home
Before leaving Columbia Road, I stopped at a sandwich bar for something to eat. The counter had pastries, cakes and bagels, including brightly coloured rainbow ones. I considered the colourful option but settled on a plain bagel with smoked salmon and cream cheese.
A drizzle of lemon juice and some black pepper finished it off. It made a very enjoyable late breakfast after the shopping. With the plant and lavender bought, I could take a moment to eat and watch the market around me.
The purchases make it home
The film ends back at home, unpacking the results of the morning. The dried lavender survived the journey, and so did the paprika plant. It was ready for the kitchen windowsill and a drink of water after being carried around London.
That is what I enjoyed about this Columbia Road Flower Market visit: a simple errand became a whole Sunday outing. Flowers and plants were the starting point, but the coffee, courtyards, music and food made the walk. Watch the original video below for the full atmosphere of the market in 2016.
