September in London brings a change of pace. In this 2018 episode, I follow that change through two food-filled outings: a rainy Saturday at Borough Market and an evening in Chinatown for the Mid-Autumn Festival. There is Monmouth coffee, a Kappacasein cheese toastie, fresh oysters, mooncake, pork bao and bubble tea along the way.
The footage records September 2018; this re-upload premiered on 24 November 2018. The places, food and observations below belong to that archive visit.
September in London starts at Borough Market
I begin at London Bridge with an umbrella overhead. September has been fairly warm, and the trees still have green leaves, but the rain makes autumn feel close. Food markets are one place where the changing season becomes easy to spot, so Borough Market is my first stop.
Before looking for lunch, I join the queue at Monmouth Coffee. Inside, the shop has the busy, rustic feel that suits the market. I take my coffee away: there is too much happening outside to sit still for long.
The queue moves along, and the coffee is a reassuring start to the visit. With a cup in hand, I head back into the market to see what looks good. I want to try something different, although an old favourite soon catches my attention.
A Kappacasein cheese toastie in the rain
At Kappacasein, I buy a toasted cheese sandwich. In the film, I remember the business as a market stall before its move into a shop. The rain has kept the queue shorter than usual, which makes this a particularly welcome stop.
The sandwich is hot, crisp and filled with melted cheese. I describe a blend of Swiss-style flavours and notice a little onion as I eat. On a cold, wet afternoon, it is exactly the sort of market snack I want.
Nearby, I point out the queue at Padella and pass Bread Ahead. Those are observations from the walk; my lunch here is the toastie, followed by a visit to one of the seafood stalls.
Fresh oysters and shelter at the Globe
The seafood displays draw a crowd, and I join the line for five rock oysters. Shellfish sit on ice around the stall, making a very different picture from the hot cheese cooking elsewhere in the market.
I try the oysters plain, without lemon, Tabasco or other seasoning. The market is noisy, so it is hardly a quiet setting for a food review, but I enjoy them. Their fresh, briny flavour is a sharp change from the rich toasted sandwich.
By Saturday lunchtime, both the crowd and the rain have grown. I head to the Globe for a pint and some shelter. It is a familiar end to a Borough Market visit: food first, then a little time in the pub before returning to the station.
An evening walk from Charing Cross to Chinatown
The second outing starts at Charing Cross later in the month. From here, theatres, cinemas, restaurants and bars are all close by. I make my way towards Chinatown to see the Mid-Autumn Festival decorations and find some mooncake.
The streets look especially atmospheric after dark. Lanterns hang above the restaurants, and the lights give Gerrard Street a warm glow. I walk through the crowds, then turn towards Golden Gate Cake Shop before it closes.
Red bean and lotus mooncakes at Golden Gate
Mooncakes come in different fillings and sizes. Because they are so filling, I choose the smallest versions available and buy both red bean and lotus paste. Then I stop outside to compare them.
The lotus paste is the sweeter of the two and remains my favourite. The red bean has a more balanced sweet and savoury flavour. I struggle to find a familiar comparison, eventually settling on fig rolls as the nearest thing that comes to mind.
Afterwards, I carry on past other bakeries. Kowloon has a mooncake stall outside, while Bake has a taiyaki machine. I have had enough cake for one evening, though, so I turn my attention to something savoury.
Pork bao and a Chatime finish
At Jen Café, I pause to watch dumplings being made. I often enjoy those, but this time I choose Baozi Inn. The pork is nearly sold out, so I get one generously filled bun instead of the usual pair.
There is pulled pork and cucumber inside the soft bao. I find somewhere to stop, unwrap it and take a bite. It turns out to be an excellent last portion, with plenty of meat packed into the bun.
Finally, I pick up bubble tea at Chatime: a regular milk tea with pearls, regular sugar and less ice. I finish the episode with the cup in hand before heading back towards Charing Cross.
Together, these outings capture my September in London through familiar streets and food. For more from the evening section, see the related Chinatown at night article.
